Burger vans muscle in on Thai food stalls-Iconic street food culture shunned as government seeks to boost tourism


By : Joan MacKay Petti – Foreign Editor

Few countries can boast of a street food scene as vibrant as Thailand’s, and few visitors go home without having sampled some, or indeed many, of the delights the country’s roadside stalls have to offer. But as incomes grow, local tastes have begun to change and there is an increasing number of food trucks serving up western cuisine.

One of the pioneers is Daniel Thaiger. Any given weekday lunchtime in Bangkok’s Sathorn office district sees people queuing up in front of the truck as the aroma of grilled meat wafts around the area.

The freshly prepared patties are served on brioche buns and with the standard cheese and bacon toppings you would expect at any gourmet burger chain. The shop owner, Honey Falcioni, a Thai national, proudly boasts of “recreating” what she used to eat in Los Angeles.

Falcioni set up shop in 2013 after returning from the U.S. at a point when growing incomes in Thailand meant the country’s middle class was beginning to take more of an interest in gastronomy.

At first, most customers were foreigners looking for a taste of home. Today, about half are Thai, Falcioni said. In a country where a meal at a street stall costs about 40 baht to 50 baht ($1.16-&1.45), Daniel Thaigers’ hamburgers are on the pricey side, at 150 baht to 200 baht. For many, they are a little luxury they permit themselves once or twice a month. Thatchpon Petch-Vra, a 23-year-old startup employee said that he does not mind paying a little extra for a good burger as he feels Thai food can get a little samey from time to time.

According to industry group Food Truck Club, there are about 1,500 food trucks in the country, mainly in the capital. Most serve burgers but pizza, tacos, grilled seafood and Japanese curry are also popular. During the day, the trucks ply their trade in office districts. At night, they make their way to commercial and residential areas or night markets. Many set up eating spaces and operate well into the night.

The number of stalls offering alcohol has fallen since Thailand banned its sale on the street a few years ago. Food trucks that operate on private land can bypass the regulations and continue to attract thirsty tourists.

The country’s military government is trying to take advantage of the boom. Last month, it suddenly came up with a plan to send food trucks to major sightseeing spots in Bangkok that will offer local dishes like pad thai in addition to western-style menus. The government will implement the plan in the second half of this year in a bid to boost tourism — the only industry that has been doing well amid overall economic stagnation.

The government is also tightening its grip on traditional street stalls in the hope of tidying up inner cities and weeding out illegal operators.

Ironically, in trying to bring in more tourists, they may be getting rid of one of the most iconic aspects of Thai culture — and one that visitors rave about — in favor of something people can get at home.

By : Joan MacKay Petti - Foreign Editor

Few countries can boast of a street food scene as vibrant as Thailand's, and few visitors go home without having sampled some, or indeed many, of the delights the country's roadside stalls have to offer. But as incomes grow, local tastes have begun to change and there is an increasing number of food trucks serving up western cuisine.

One of the pioneers is Daniel Thaiger. Any given weekday lunchtime in Bangkok's Sathorn office district sees people queuing up in front of the truck as the aroma of grilled meat wafts around the area.

The freshly prepared patties are served on brioche buns and with the standard cheese and bacon toppings you would expect at any gourmet burger chain. The shop owner, Honey Falcioni, a Thai national, proudly boasts of "recreating" what she used to eat in Los Angeles.

Falcioni set up shop in 2013 after returning from the U.S. at a point when growing incomes in Thailand meant the country's middle class was beginning to take more of an interest in gastronomy.

At first, most customers were foreigners looking for a taste of home. Today, about half are Thai, Falcioni said. In a country where a meal at a street stall costs about 40 baht to 50 baht ($1.16-&1.45), Daniel Thaigers' hamburgers are on the pricey side, at 150 baht to 200 baht. For many, they are a little luxury they permit themselves once or twice a month. Thatchpon Petch-Vra, a 23-year-old startup employee said that he does not mind paying a little extra for a good burger as he feels Thai food can get a little samey from time to time.

According to industry group Food Truck Club, there are about 1,500 food trucks in the country, mainly in the capital. Most serve burgers but pizza, tacos, grilled seafood and Japanese curry are also popular. During the day, the trucks ply their trade in office districts. At night, they make their way to commercial and residential areas or night markets. Many set up eating spaces and operate well into the night.

The number of stalls offering alcohol has fallen since Thailand banned its sale on the street a few years ago. Food trucks that operate on private land can bypass the regulations and continue to attract thirsty tourists.

The country's military government is trying to take advantage of the boom. Last month, it suddenly came up with a plan to send food trucks to major sightseeing spots in Bangkok that will offer local dishes like pad thai in addition to western-style menus. The government will implement the plan in the second half of this year in a bid to boost tourism -- the only industry that has been doing well amid overall economic stagnation.

The government is also tightening its grip on traditional street stalls in the hope of tidying up inner cities and weeding out illegal operators.

Ironically, in trying to bring in more tourists, they may be getting rid of one of the most iconic aspects of Thai culture -- and one that visitors rave about -- in favor of something people can get at home.

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